[Tutorial] How To Use Deep Pour Epoxy

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Upstart Epoxy's DEEP POUR epoxy resin was developed to answer a question that comes up constantly on social media: when is the deep pour resin coming?
The answer is simple — it’s here!

This tutorial walks through the first deep pour using Upstart Epoxy’s deep pour resin, showing how to set up the project, calculate resin volume, mix properly, pour, and manage the early stages of cure. The goal is to help you understand how the resin behaves so you know what to expect during your own deep pour project.

Preparing the Project

Before any resin is mixed, the project should already be fully prepared. In this case, the mold is built ahead of time, and a slab of walnut is cut and ready to go. Acrylic mold walls are used so the pour is visible from the side, making it easy to see how the resin flows, releases bubbles, and interacts with the wood.

The walnut slab is placed into the mold as a single exposed-edge river-style piece. At this point, you’ll want to decide whether the pour will be clear, opaque, or metallic. For this project, a custom pearlescent cinnamon color is used to complement the walnut. 

Everything used during the pour is laid out ahead of time:

• Deep pour resin (Part A & Part B)

• Acrylic mold with sealed seams

• Walnut slab

• Measuring containers

• Large mixing vessels

• Mixing tools (not small stir sticks due to resin volume)

• Pigment (custom pearlescent cinnamon color)

• Torch

• Alcohol

• Cleanup supplies

• Caul blocks and weights (to prevent the wood from floating)

Setting Up for the Pour

All materials should be laid out before you begin. That includes your deep pour resin, measuring containers, large mixing vessels, pigments, cleanup supplies, and a torch. Because wood can float once resin is introduced, caul blocks and weight are placed on top of the slab to hold it down during the cure.

This is a large pour, so small stir sticks aren’t sufficient. Use mixing tools and containers sized appropriately for the volume of resin you’ll be working with.

Calculating How Much Resin You Need

To determine how much resin is required, use the deep pour calculator available on the website. Measure the empty volume of your mold at twelve evenly spaced points along the length of the project. Enter those measurements, along with the project length and depth, into the calculator.

The calculator handles the math and returns the total amount of epoxy needed. For this project, the calculation comes out to 4.5 liters, or about 1.2 gallons. That total is split into two batches: one 3-liter mix and one 1.5-liter mix.

Mixing the Deep Pour Resin

Deep pour resin is mixed at a 2:1 ratio by volume, NOT by weight. For a 3-liter batch, that means two liters of Part A and one liter of Part B. For the 1.5-liter batch, use one liter of Part A and half a liter of Part B.

As you mix, you’ll notice the resin change appearance. It starts clear, turns cloudy as the components combine, and then becomes clear again. Once the resin clears, it’s fully mixed and ready for pigment.

Mix slowly and thoroughly, scraping the sides and bottom of the container as you go. There’s no need to rush or introduce excess air. One advantage of deep pour resin is its long working time, which gives you plenty of time to ensure everything is mixed properly.

Once the resin is fully mixed, add your pigment. For this pour, the goal is a deep, opaque color with strong visual movement. The pigment is mixed in until the color is consistent and vibrant, with no translucency.

Pouring the Resin

With the resin mixed and colored, the pour can begin. One of the first things you’ll notice is how thin the deep pour resin is compared to surface coatings. That thinner consistency allows the resin to flow easily into cracks, voids, and pores while helping air escape quickly.

As the resin is poured, bubbles begin releasing almost immediately. Instead of lingering, they rise and break within seconds. This rapid bubble release is a direct result of the resin’s formulation.

The resin naturally works its way into cracks, splits, and open voids in the wood. Rather than forcing those areas full right away, the resin is allowed to seep in gradually, sealing the wood from the inside out.

Monitoring Absorption and Resin Levels

Walnut absorbs epoxy aggressively. As the resin penetrates the wood’s fibers and pores, the overall level in the mold will drop. This is expected.

After the initial pour, allow the project to sit for a few hours, then check the level. If it has dropped, use the leftover resin to top it off and bring the surface back to level. This step ensures that voids stay filled and the final surface remains even.

Overnight Cure and Early Set

Once the pour is complete and the surface is leveled, leave the project undisturbed overnight. As the resin begins its chemical cure, pigment movement becomes more visible and the figure in the pour starts to develop. Cracks and voids remain filled, and any remaining resin can be used to re-level the surface if needed.

No additional resin should be added after roughly 24 to 36 hours. At that point, the epoxy reaches a jelly-like stage. If you press lightly into an area that will later be cleaned up, you’ll feel resistance rather than liquid movement. This indicates the resin is progressing properly through its cure.

From here, the project is left to continue curing over the next several days.