How to Use Tabletop Epoxy Resin
The process of mixing and pouring tabletop epoxy can make or break your project. We provide a clear epoxy resin, sure to leave a smooth finish!
In this tutorial, Upstart Epoxy shows you exactly how to use tabletop epoxy to achieve an amazing result.
Materials Used
All items listed below are mentioned or shown in the video:
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Upstart Epoxy Tabletop Epoxy (Part A and Part B)
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Plastic scraper (included)
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Foam brush (included)
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Stir sticks (included)
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User guide (included)
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Feedback card (included)
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Free pigment or powder card (included)
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Mixing buckets (various sizes)
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Measuring containers with ounce markings
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Rubber gloves
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Safety glasses
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Tape
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Tarp (for floor and drips)
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Clean rags (non-paper, such as cloth or t-shirt)
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Heat gun
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Sandpaper
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Polyurethane (for sealing underside)
Unboxing and Setup
Inside the box, you’ll find Part A and Part B of the epoxy, mixing sticks, a plastic scraper, a foam brush for edges, and printed instructions. The tabletop epoxy uses a 1:1 mix ratio by volume, meaning one part Part A and one part Part B.
Before mixing, gather clean mixing buckets. Wipe them out first to remove dust or debris that could affect the final finish. Put on rubber gloves and safety glasses before starting.
Measuring the Tabletop and Calculating Epoxy
The tabletop is coated in two stages: a seal coat followed by a flood coat. The seal coat is measured at 1/16 of an inch, and the flood coat at 1/8 of an inch.
Start by measuring the length and width of the tabletop. In this case, the surface measures 92¼ inches by 22 inches. Multiply those numbers to get the surface area, then multiply again by the desired pour depth to calculate volume.
The seal coat volume is converted from cubic inches to fluid ounces using an online calculator. The result is rounded up to allow for epoxy loss over the edges. For this project, the seal coat requires 72 total ounces, split evenly into 36 ounces of Part A and 36 ounces of Part B.
The flood coat is double that amount, requiring 144 total ounces, or 72 ounces of Part A and 72 ounces of Part B.
Both coats together require 216 total ounces, which converts to 1.62 gallons of epoxy. This number helps determine how much epoxy to purchase.
Mixing the Epoxy
Part A and Part B are measured into separate containers first, then combined into a third container for mixing. Containers are labeled to prevent mistakes.
The epoxy is mixed by hand, not with a mechanical mixer. Hand mixing helps prevent excess air bubbles. As the parts combine, the epoxy turns cloudy and then becomes clear again. Once clear, it is fully mixed.
Mix slowly and thoroughly for several minutes, scraping the sides and bottom of the container until the epoxy is uniform with no streaks.
Applying the Seal Coat
The seal coat is poured onto the tabletop and spread using the plastic scraper. The epoxy is worked to the edges and allowed to drip over the sides. A tarp underneath catches excess epoxy.
The epoxy is self-leveling, so it does not need to be overworked. A V-notch trowel is used lightly to help distribute the epoxy evenly. A foam brush is then used along the edges and underside to smooth drips and keep the sides clean.
After spreading, a heat gun is passed a few inches above the surface to pop surface bubbles. The heat gun is kept moving to avoid overheating or scorching the epoxy.
Deciding Whether a Flood Coat Is Needed
After the seal coat cures, the surface is checked. In this case, the wood absorbs less epoxy than expected, and the seal coat alone fully levels the surface and seals the pores. No surface bubbles appear, and the finish is already level.
Because of this, the flood coat is skipped. This saves epoxy, time, and cost while still achieving a smooth, sealed finish.
Sealing the Bottom of the Table
The top and sides of the tabletop are fully sealed with epoxy, but the bottom remains raw wood. Once the epoxy cures, the tabletop is flipped over onto a soft surface.
Any drips on the underside are sanded smooth. The edges are taped off, and polyurethane is applied to the bottom to seal it. Sealing all sides of the table helps prevent wood movement caused by humidity changes.
Final Steps
After curing, sanding, and sealing the underside, the tabletop is complete. The epoxy finish is level, durable, and ready for everyday use!
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